Dept. Soul Kitchen

Go Green With the Choices on Your Plate
Rob Everett explores great green eats that reflect the arrival of spring.

Spring is here, and all of us produce people can rejoice in the arrival of an assortment of new-crop green vegetables. The most glamorous item returning to the shelf is asparagus. Globe artichokes have arrived, too, and are always a welcome addition to the rack. And then there are fava beans; perhaps a stranger to some, they’re becoming less of a rarity and are an absolute treat to eat. Each of these three green choices has its own distinct nutrition profile and makes up an important part of a balanced, spring season diet.


ASPARAGUS
Asparagus is vegetable family royalty, combining great taste with excellent value. Its tender texture and wonderful flavor make it easily one of the most popular items in the produce department. Thanks to our friends in the Southern Hemisphere, it’s available year-round, which has helped its popularity. In the Northern Hemisphere, though, the growing season begins in Mexico and moves all the way up to Canada as spring plays out. I know an asparagus lover who heads to Michigan for the annual harvest and brings back frozen product to last her through the year. Locally, we have a brief season, with modest amounts showing at tailgate markets. Asparagus has many nutritional qualities, namely the highest folic acid content compared to other vegetables. It contains an amino acid that stimulates your kidneys and serves as a flushing agent; many reference its diuretic effect.


TIPS FOR PURCHASING AND PREPARATION:
When buying, avoid wilted stalks, slimy tips and unpleasant odor. I would suggest that spear size doesn’t matter. Color is a better clue; darker is better.


Clean and trim the spears, removing any woody stalk. Then, try one of several easy preparation techniques: basic steaming, covered dish roasting, broiling in the toaster oven, or outside open grilling. You can dress the asparagus in a light oil and vinegar blend seasoned with salt and pepper. Chilled asparagus can accompany many green salads. Or, use very fresh asparagus as a dipping instrument with hummus and other spreads. If your asparagus has seen better days, homemade creamy soup is a good option.


GLOBE ARTICHOKES

Spring signals the return of globe artichokes out of California, where suitable weather conditions create a great product. Also of Mediterranean origin, this flower-like vegetable is popularly consumed as a processed “heart,” boiled and peeled to the core then marinated in olive oil. However, the fresh product always offers superior nutritional qualities and vital plant energy. Recent research has discovered that artichokes contain antioxidants, or phytochemicals that the body can use to maintain a healthy state.


TIPS FOR PURCHASING AND PREPARATION:

The dominant technique of artichoke preparation is boiling. The trick is to keep the bobbing choke submerged; I use an inverted pot lid with a weight overtop. Traditionally, the tender inner leaves are scraped between the teeth after dipping in a lemon butter sauce in order to access a yummy core that lies hidden beneath a fuzzy layer. For an ambitious cook, the boiled heart can be stuffed and baked with whatever one may prefer, from cheese and meats to nuts and herbs.


FAVA BEANS
Spring also brings fresh legumes to market, with the harvest again starting in Mexico and Florida and moving north. For most shoppers, sugar snap and snow peas are mundane. Pea shoots or tendrils have become a standard in fine dining. Butter beans and various field peas are certainly popular throughout the Southeast. But, lesser known to many is the interesting fava bean. Common in Greek and Italian cuisine, they have not seen broad American fanfare until recently. Their pods are unique in appearance, with substantial girth and supple skin. They hold the honor of being one of few beans grown in Europe prior to new world discoveries. Modern commercial production is almost exclusively out of the western U.S. and Mexico.


TIPS FOR PURCHASING AND PREPARATION:
This ancient bean’s low profile is partially due to an inherently demanding disposition. You must shell them and then tediously peel a thin skin from the bean itself. This work is very worthwhile, though, thanks to its exceptional flavor and nutritional value. In spring, you’ll find young, or early, fava beans. (They can be allowed to fully mature to a hard, dry stage.) For these immature specimens, light boiling is a preferred preparation, maybe with a simple finish in the sauté pan with your favorite spices and olive oil. A raw version of this food might involve an acidic marinade or sprouting in water. They offer healthy plant-based protein and fiber and are naturally fat-free. Favas apparently contain high concentrations of dopamine, an amino acid helping in brain function. Thus, it would seem that experimenting with these little dynamos in your spring menu is a smart decision.






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