Eating is one of the most important things we do everyday. It has lifelong implications for our health, our children’s health, and the health of the planet. Something odd has happened with our food — most of us don’t know who grows it or how it is grown anymore. How could something so important be so out of our control? For more and more Americans, knowing who grows their food is becoming important. Increasingly, Americans are taking back some control over their food by purchasing directly from the farmers that grow the food.

Earlier this year the Agriculture Census was released. Conducted in the year 2002, the census shows at least one surprising and encouraging statistic. Between 1997 (the year of the previous census) and 2002, direct sales from farmers to consumers increased 37 percent. This means that many more people are eating fresher foods and establishing relationships with the farmers that grow the food. This is an encouraging trend that has positive benefits both for consumers and farmers and for the land.

Farmers benefit whenever a layer can be removed between them and the consumer. Modern industrial agriculture has turned food into just another global commodity, with the farmer receiving only a small percentage of the food dollar. Today’s agricultural production system has led to the extreme concentration of farms to the point that we have very few farms left. The logical conclusion of a farming system that constantly moves toward concentration and the lowest cost producer is that one day we will no longer have any farms in the United States. Purchasing directly from farmers is a grassroots movement to decentralize the food system and take back control of agriculture.

Consumers also benefit whenever a layer can be removed. They get fresher and better tasting foods - most foods today are being developed for travel and shelf-life rather than flavor and freshness. Consumers also regain some of the power they have lost. By getting to know the farmer, the consumer can influence how the food is grown and the varieties cultivated. They also keep their food dollars in the community, thus strengthening the local economy.

In western North Carolina, we are blessed with many opportunities to get to know farmers and purchase fresh farm products. One of the best places to meet farmers, rebuild local economies, have fun and build community, while enjoying the freshest foods, is at the many farmers’ tailgate markets in the region.

In small and large towns throughout western North Carolina, you can now find a seasonal farmers’ tailgate market. Every week throughout the growing season, farmers come to market to sell their farm products. Over the past few years, our markets have grown in number, popularity, and the selection of farm products available. These markets are literally ‘tailgate” markets, with farmers selling produce taken directly from the back of the truck that was loaded up in the field earlier that day. Most of these markets are located in central places in our many mountain towns. They often have tents for shade and are at the same place at a designated time every week during the season.

Shopping at the markets is fun for the entire family. Many have music and most will let you sample the many varieties of fruits, vegetables, meats, and cheeses that they bring to market. In the last few years, you can increasingly find much more than just great locally grown fruits and vegetables at the markets. Now you will often find goat cheese in many flavors and varieties, fresh baked artisan breads, meats - from lamb to pork to beef, mountain trout, eggs, baked goods, and jams, jellies, and pickles. Many also include mountain crafts, handmade soaps, honey, and more. You can now do all your weekly shopping at the markets, getting the freshest and best quality possible, and experience real Appalachian flavors.

Shopping at the markets is also a powerful way to take back control of the food you eat. Farmers at the markets are happy to meet and talk about their growing practices. Farmers take great pride in what they grow. They want to grow what their neighbors want to eat (and introduce their neighbors to new things too). By meeting the farmer that grows your food, you become part of the agriculture process. You are able to complete the circle from the land to farmer to consumer in the most direct way possible short of growing the food yourself.

A great opportunity to visit the markets at their best is during Summer Celebration. Every summer (this year Summer Celebration is August 4, 5, 7, 8), the nine markets in Buncombe and Madison counties go all out with wonderful Appalachian flavors for everyone. From cooking demonstrations, tastings, contests, drawings, children’s’ events, and live music, Summer Celebration has something for everyone. Find all western North Carolina markets in the Local Food Guide and online at www.BuyAppalachian.org.

Charlie Jackson is the Local Food Campaign Director of the Appalachian Sustainable Agriculture Project. For more info on ASAP, contact him at 828-293-3262, Charlie@buyappalachian.org.





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