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Dept.
Digging In
Start the Year off Right:
Get a Jump on the Growing Season
Kyle Peschke "Turtle"
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Spring is just around the corner,
and what better way to start it than with seeds? Flipping through
seed catalogs all winter has got me dreaming of crisp green lettuce
and big, juicy tomatoes. I just can’t wait any longer. It’s
time to get out the trays and potting soil, and start growing.
STARTING
SEEDS INDOORS
If you have ever sown a flat of vegetable or flower seeds, placed
them in a sunny window, and then watched them germinate, you know
how easy it can be. There are plenty of elaborate ways to go about
starting crops indoors, and there are even more products out there
to help you get things going, but all you really need are some
trays, some potting soil, a couple of varieties of seeds, and
a window. The most crucial variable—the thing that will
determine the success of your project—is soil temperature.
Different vegetables like different temperatures— somewhere
between 40 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit— but for practical
purposes, somewhere around 55 to 65 degrees is a good soil temperature.
Putting the flats in a warm room, in a south-facing window should
be enough to heat up the soil. If you need an extra boost, there
are electric mats specially designed for warming propagation trays
(available at Asheville Agriculture Systems for $25). Another
tip for getting a good germination rate is to cover the flats
with a piece of plastic or place them inside a plastic bag; this
will help the soil hold its warmth. Once the seeds have sprouted,
the flats can be uncovered and placed in the window. Be careful:
once you get started, it can get addictive, which means pots,
trays, and flats of little sprouting plants in every sunny window
in the house! Maybe it’s time to go outside.
STARTING
SEEDS OUTDOORS
Cold frames and hoop houses are a great way to take your seed-starting
projects outdoors. Cold frames can be built easily and affordably
using plywood for walls and a piece of glass as a roof. Hoop houses
are made by bending PVC pipes, an electric conduit, or bamboo,
and covering this with a sheet of plastic. (See my Digging In
article in the December–January 2007 issue for instructions.)
These structures provide a level of protection from the cold,
though they aren’t always enough. One possibility for providing
extra warmth within the shelter is to lay down a bed of fresh
manure and cover it with some soil before setting up your hoop
house or cold frame. The manure will generate heat as it decomposes.
This is referred to in gardening books as a “hot bed”
or “hot house.” Another helpful tip is to fill up
gallon jugs with water. The sun warms the water during the day,
slowly heating the space through the night. The hoop house and
cold frame can also be especially useful as the plants grown indoors
mature and are ready to be “hardened off.” Basically,
this means acclimating the seedlings to outside weather. By transplanting
your indoor plants into cold frames, you will help them assimilate
and prevent excessive shock.
PLANNING YOUR GARDEN AND TIMING YOUR EFFORTS
This is the most complicated part of getting a jump on the season,
but I’ll try to make it easy. According to the Buncombe
County NC Agriculture Extension Office, May 5th is the First Safe
Planting Day. This year, I’m going to try moving that up
a little, and aim at having most of my plants out by Earth Day,
April 22nd, as the average last frost date in our region is around
mid-April. This knowledge comes in handy when we ask, “What
day do I start each crop that I want to grow?” The different
vegetables that we grow through the spring and summer all have
different germination and maturation lengths; therefore it is
necessary to start them at different times if they are to be ready
when we plant them on Earth Day. To streamline things a bit, I
divide the major crops into three categories: plants that need
six or more weeks, plants that need four to five weeks, and plants
that need two to three weeks (see table below). The plants that
make up the first group are plants that take about six weeks,
or sometimes longer, to germinate and then go through an initial
growing phase that will make them strong enough to handle lower
outside temperatures. This category is generally made of culinary
and medicinal herbs, as well as plants in the Brassica family:
broccoli, cabbage, and kale. About four to five weeks before Earth
Day (between March 18th and 25th), I will begin to sow plants
from the second group, plants that average 28 to 42 days before
being transplanted. These include cauliflower, tomatoes, peppers,
eggplants, and lettuce. I will also replant some of the group
1 plants so that at harvest, I will have plants at different stages.
If it’s beginning to warm up and isn’t too wet, peas
and potatoes can be directly sown into the garden at this time.
The third and final indoor planting is done between April 1st
and 8th, two to three weeks before our “planting out”
day. This group consists of the “quick growers,” plants
that take 14 to 28 days to reach a breaking point at which any
more time spent indoors will inhibit their growth. By starting
some plants indoors that are usually sown outside—beans,
melons, and squash, for example— we get a 21-day jump on
their season, which means a 21-day jump on their harvest. Most
often, in early May, I also sow this group directly into the garden,
especially the beans and cucumbers. This way I can have two harvests,
spread throughout the summer.
If you follow, even loosely,
this planting schedule, then sometime around April 22nd you will
have a variety of vegetable seedlings just itching to get into
the ground. Transplant into your gardens, space according to the
seed packets, and mulch them if you wish with straw or rotted
leaves. You are now on your way to a happy, vibrant garden, and
it is still only early spring!
Looking for good seeds?
Here are a few companies worth mentioning:
Fedco Seed Co. (207) 873-7333 www.fedcoseeds.com
Johnny’s Selected Seeds (877) 564-6697
www.johnnyseeds.com
J.L. Hudson, Seedsman www.jlhudson.net
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange (540) 894-9480
www.southernexposure.com
Stoke’s Seeds (716) 695-6980 www.stokeseeds.com
Vesey’s Seeds, Ltd. (902) 566-1620 www.veseys.com
Starting
Dates for Spring Transplants:
GROUP
1 (42 DAYS OR MORE)
6 WEEKS BEFORE PLANTING DAY |
BROCCOLI: 59-66 DAYS
CABBAGE: 63-75 DAYS
CHIVES: 31-56 DAYS
CILANTRO: 49-63 DAYS
FENNEL: 42-71 DAYS
KALE: 52-108 DAYS
SPINACH: 56-64 DAYS |
GROUP 2
(28-42 DAYS)
4-5 WEEKS BEFORE PLANTING DAY |
CAULIFLOWER: 25-45 DAYS
EGGPLANT: 33-55 DAYS
LETTUCE: 25-46 DAYS
PEAS: 35-56 DAYS
PEPPERS: 28-35 DAYS
POTATOES: 14-28 DAYS
TOMATOES: 28-56 DAYS
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GROUP 3
(14-28 DAYS)
2-3 WEEKS BEFORE PLANTING |
DRIED BEANS: 25-28 DAYS
LIMA BEANS: 14-25 DAYS
SNAP BEANS: 18-24 DAYS
CUCUMBERS: 17-21 DAYS
DILL: 21-30 DAYS
MELONS: 18-21 DAYS |
| Compiled from “The Gardener’s A-Z Guide
to Growing Organic Food” by Tanya L.K. Denckla. |
Turtle is an organic gardener working
with plants and people at the Pearson Drive community garden in
Montford. The demonstration site for the Bountiful Cities Project,
a local non-profit resource for neighborhood gardens and urban
agriculture projects. 828-257-4000
Back
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