As many are aware, our food supply is increasingly in development’s path. According to American Farmland Trust, the U.S. loses two acres of farmland every minute. Between 1992 and 1997, we developed more than six million acres of agricultural land. Closer to home, North Carolina leads the nation in farm loss, losing 1,000 farms in 2005 alone, according to a recent USDA report. And, according to the National Resources Inventory, North Carolina loses over 30,000 acres of prime farmland to development annually. In a press release earlier this year, state agriculture commissioner Steve Troxler named development pressure and economic uncertainty the “deadly duo” fueling this trend. With the state’s population expected to increase dramatically (around fifty percent) by 2025, this seems a sticky predicament.

In Western North Carolina, the outlook seems as grim. Tom Elmore, a local farmer who is also a senior planner with the Land of Sky Regional Council, explained the plight of farmland in Henderson County, one of the most productive in the nation and one that has led western North Carolina’s development in recent years. “If current trends continue, we’ll lose half the farmland [there] in one generation and the rest of it in the next generation. And that’s a conservative estimate. It really is a problem. It’s not an abstract concept that someday this will be an issue.

It’s a problem here and now. Farmland conversion is, for the most part, irreversible. That’s the gloomy side.” Why all the hubbub about farmland, anyway? The bottom line is we need it. We need it because it provides a backdrop of working lands that people flock to get a peek at, supporting a thriving tourism industry. Farmland is always at work behind the scenes, too, filtering our water and air and providing critical habitat for wildlife, big and small. Our farmland tells the story of our region’s history, spelling out the co-evolution of land and culture in wet, green brushstrokes across these mountains. It defines the character of a people who have been grafted onto land that speaks the language of hard work and sweet rewards, of the healing nature of plants and the soft embrace of morning fog in a mountain hollow. Last, but not least, in a time of escalating climate change, with the reality of peak oil prices on the horizon, our need for farmland right here may soon surpass any of these quaint visions. Farmland is where food comes from.

John Bonham of Carolina Mountain Land Conservancy in Hendersonville brought up several issues behind the loss of farmland, not the least of which is property rights. There’s no question farmers have a right to sell property to the highest bidder for medical bills or anything else. As Bonham explained, “There are landowners out there who gripe about development. They don’t like to see the landscape change. But, at the same time, they don’t want to let the boat pass them by, and they don’t want to tie the hands of their children. They don’t want development in their back yard, but they still want to be able to make $30,000 per acre.” Bonham also pointed out that few in the younger generations of current farm families are taking over. Who can blame them, given the financial difficulty many farmers endure? While many area young folks would love to farm but have no access to land, these new and want-to-be farmers typically want to farm between one and five acres, not the larger acreage grabbed up by developers. “Unfortunately, we’ve got some major forces against us,” Bonham said, adding, “At the root of the problem with loss of farmland is farm profitability.” Many would agree.
So, why is it so hard to make farming profitable? Why is it a good year for many American farmers when they break even at the bank? It’s no lack of expertise. If anybody knows how to grow a good crop, it’s a farmer. The answer is tricky, of course, because farmers are part of a global agricultural system teeming with complexity. With a zoom lens, we can move past the machinery of global markets and international trade agreements, past the momentum of debilitating domestic policies, and look locally for strategies to keep farming profitable here so we can keep farmland part of our landscape.

Local initiatives designed to tackle these issues abound. Area land trusts educate landowners about tools available for preserving farmland, such as North Carolina’s present use value tax program, conservation easements and voluntary agricultural districts. These tools offer varying levels of preservation and associated tax benefits in exchange for varying levels of development restrictions. Many area counties also have active Farmland Protection Boards. Initiatives such as the Farm Prosperity Project, led by Dr. Jeanine Davis of NC State University, and the Farmland Values Project, led by Dr. Leah Mathews of UNCA, are examining solutions to the loss of farmland in the area through a variety of methods (see websites above). In addition, with a focus on improving farm profitability through local markets, the Appalachian Sustainable Agriculture Project (ASAP) is at the forefront of the buy local trend. ASAP certifies farm products as Appalachian Grown, clearly identifying local food in the marketplace. Executive director Charlie Jackson explains, “Every year, we produce the Local Food Guide to give people the opportunity to support local farms. When we’re talking about farmland, it’s our belief that the best approach to preservation is making farms profitable.”

How can we help? We can buy their products. As a farmer, Tom Elmore does see a sunny side to farming in the results of consumer support. “I think this is an exciting time to be in agriculture. Demand at area farmers’ tailgate markets goes up every year. We’re trying to figure out how to grow enough to meet the demand!” The enthusiasm of consumers for local food is matched by the enthusiasm of many farmers to keep doing what they love. Elmore explains, “I think farmers, more than most, don’t like being pushed around and told what to do. What we’re being told right now is, ‘Sell out. You can’t make a living.’ But the farm community is starting to push back. Farmers are a very creative and resilient group. The way they respond to crises like this is by adapting and pressing on.”

Gerry Cohn of American Farmland Trust’s regional office is also hopeful. “I see some great developments, particularly in Western North Carolina, through direct marketing strategies that link farmers directly with consumers. That’s really the good side. People are being creative and finding a lot of good solutions.”

Remember, we have a powerful choice as to how we spend our food dollars. As Charlie Jackson says, “Vote for local farms with your food dollar. Vote for farmland preservation.”

Libby Hinsley is a yoga instructor and local farm advocate living in Asheville. She can be reached at libby_hinsley@hotmail.com.

RECOVERING FROM THE EASTER FREEZE
While development-related issues are a big concern for area growers, the recent late-in-the-year freeze hit farms hard. In Georgia, one grower remarked that the cold was severe enough to freeze even plants inside of their high-tunnels. It is estimated that North Carolina’s Henderson County alone suffered an estimated $19.6 million in loss of apple crop. Other crops damaged in western North Carolina include blueberries, strawberries, nursery plants, and some spring and summer vegetables. Want to help? Various benefits and fundraisers are taking place across the region. If you miss one or can’t find one nearby, don’t worry; your continued support of area farms can make a difference. Give you favorite apple orchard or farm a call and ask them what’s going on this year. Despite hardships, most growers are not giving up, and many growers pursuing an eco-friendly approach were able to save some losses. Find out if they do have any crop to offer, are hosting any events, or are offering up their land for your special occasion. Then, go out and support them in any way you can.

RESOURCES FOR MORE INFORMATION
American Farmland Trust, www.farmland.org
Appalachian Sustainable Agriculture Project, www.asapconnections.org
Carolina Mountain Land Conservancy, www.carolinamountain.org
Farm Prosperity Project, www.ncspecialtycrops.org
Farmland Values Project, www.unca.edu/farmlandvalues
Land of Sky Regional Council, www.landofsky.org
Land Trust for the Little Tennessee, www.ltlt.org
Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy, www.appalachian.org
State Representative Susan Fisher, www.electsusanfisher.com

Back to New Life Journal..