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Welcome to the Season of Mold
Isaac
Savage
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Isaac Savage looks at Spring’s
unwelcome house guest.
Mold is good…except when it’s growing inside your
house. Without mold, decomposition would not occur, cheese would
be boring, and the majority of houses in western North Carolina
would be missing the musty smell that wafts up from the ductwork
every time the air is turned on.
Mold is what makes nature’s cycle complete. The role of
mold is to break down the energy in plants/cellulose so that it
can return to the earth, beginning its cycle all over again.
Our society has decided that
it makes good sense to build our houses out of trees. We frame
them with sticks of wood, sheath them with plywood and OSB (shredded
wood mixed with glue and heat), and finish off the inside with
sheetrock that is sandwiched between paper. Even though we live
in houses made of mold food, this fodder is only appetizing when
moisture levels are out of balance. Therefore, it becomes very
important that we keep them dry.
There are three main sources of moisture introduction in a house:
plumbing leaks, water from the outside and moisture produced inside
the home.
Plumbing leaks are
typically a result of freezing.
The only way a pipe can freeze in a house is if it’s located
in an exterior wall cavity that is poorly insulated or in a cavity
that is connected to outdoor air via breaks in the air-barrier.
When planning the location of plumbing, consider the temperature
of the cavity where the pipes are located. Interior walls and
well-sealed floor cavities are the best options. When positioning
water heaters or air-handlers on upper levels, include drain pans
beneath them to prevent damage if a leak occurs.
Outside moisture comes from
the sky, from the ground and from the air.
Water from the sky should go exactly where you want it to go—away
from your house. Leaky roofs and flashing details, negative slopes
around the house (land sloping toward your house), missing drainage
planes between the sheathing and the siding, and non-functioning
gutters are typical “sky water” problems.
Water from the ground should
also be managed by design. The lack of vapor control systems in
the crawlspace and poor (or non-existent) exterior foundation
drainage systems are common ground water intrusion problems.
The most mysterious of the
three is moisture from the air—vapor. Vapor gets into the
home via air leakage or by diffusing through each material that
your building envelope (walls/roof/floor) is composed of. Air
leakage transports about 100 times more moisture from outside
to inside than the natural diffusion of vapor through the materials
in the wall. As such, air leakage can also be a source of moisture
that needs to be addressed.
Outside air that leaks
into your home through the building envelope carries moisture
into these cavities. If these cavities contain wood,
darkness and the right temperature range, you have perfect conditions
for mold growth. In the summertime, outside vapor tends to move
into the house (from high levels to low levels). In the wintertime,
the opposite is true. So, the likelihood of mold growth is pretty
high when outdoor air can leak into the wall cavities and condense
on the back of a cold piece of sheetrock (air-conditioned house)
that is lined with paper. This is also a problem if there is a
layer of plastic between the sheetrock and the studs. The condensation
will then drip down the plastic and settle at the bottom of the
wall. The same can be said in the winter, only the cold sheathing
is the outer surface of the house. The only way to control this
air-transported vapor is to seal the holes in your walls, which,
like most things, is easier to do while the house is being built.
To battle outdoor moisture,
the house should be as air-tight as possible and be designed to
shed water. There are many materials and systems that play a part
in the control of moisture. For example, there are exotic materials
that are simple to install, while there are also simple materials
that require more careful installation. Either direction will
work as long as the building envelope is functioning as a system.
Investing more energy and money in controlling moisture within
the building envelope will be well worth the effort in the long
run.
Moisture produced inside
the house should be removed with proper use of bathroom and kitchen
exhaust fans.
It is imperative that these ducts take the exhausted air all the
way to the outside, not just into the attic. It is also important
that the ductwork on these fans be as short as possible with very
few bends. If you cannot avoid a long duct run, get a larger fan
or install a booster fan to compensate for the added static pressure.
Oversized air conditioners
(A/C) are also quite common and can create high moisture levels
inside the home. First, understand that the role of an A/C is
to cool and dehumidify. When an A/C unit is too large, it satisfies
the temperature demand of the thermostat before it has the chance
to remove enough moisture to make the house comfortable (this
requires longer run times). All you’re left with in this
scenario is cool/sticky air, high moisture levels, and lots of
cold surfaces. Remember, bigger is not always better.
What size is the right size?
A “Manual-J” calculation can be done to determine
the proper sized machinery for your specific house. This calculation
is not done on paper or in one’s head and can only be accurately
generated by using a sophisticated computer software program which
takes many different variables into account, all of which are
specific to your house. This report not only tells you how big
the overall system should be, but also how much air to inject
into each room of the house for optimum comfort.
No one wants a rotting house
that stinks of mold. A true sign of a quality house is one that
handles moisture properly. Whether you’re trying to improve
your current property or building a new home, focusing on moisture
control should be a top priority for your health
and your wallet.
WHAT IS MOLD?
Mold is a fungus that can grow on and decompose any number of
objects. There are various types of mold, some of these can emit
toxins that can be potentially harmful to humans and animals.
Toxic mold poses the biggest threat to those individuals with
weak immune systems such as babies or the elderly.
WHERE CAN MOLDS BE
FOUND?
Molds are usually found wherever there is moisture, such as under
a leaky pipe. Molds may grow wherever there is water, oxygen and
something they can stick to and feed on. Outdoors, they are found
on rotting materials such as logs, branches, plants and leaves,
especially in dark, moist areas. Molds may grow indoors and into
our homes in dark, damp areas such as closets, basements, and
under kitchen or bathroom sinks. While mold grows in moist areas,
it can still exist once the water has dried up. These can all
be seen and removed while the worst is when mold creeps into wall
cavities and underneath the flooring of a home, where they cannot
be seen.
WHAT ARE THE POTENTIAL
HEALTH EFFECTS?
Molds and mold spores produce mycotoxins that can cause a number
of health problems. Mycotoxins may cause diseases related to indoor
airborne exposure to molds. Skin is another potential route of
exposure to mycotoxins, and toxins of several fungi can cause
cases of severe dermatosis. In view of the serious nature of the
toxic effects reported for mycotoxins, exposure to mycotoxin-producing
agents should be minimized.
PEOPLE SENSITIVE TO MOLD MAY
EXPERIENCE…
Nasal stuffiness
Cough
Eye irritation
Wheezing
Skin irritation
Fever
Chills
Muscular aches
Respiratory problems:
Asthma
Shortness of breath and other Respiratory problems
Headache
Confusion
Depression
Fatigue
Irritability
Sleep Disorders
Cancer
Death
Back
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