Time was, eaters had their choice of fruit and vegetable varieties in the number of high hundreds—possibly thousands. Tomatoes alone accounted for more than a hundred of those, give or take. But today, a meager thirty plants feeds 95 percent of the world’s population, only a few tomato choices among them. In spite of this startling fact, some of those old-time varieties still exist; you just have to know where to look.

If you’ve spent any time at your local farmers’ market, no doubt you’ve noticed some strange-looking fruits and vegetables lying around. More than likely, you’ve never seen them in a grocery store. And despite the intrigue of their many colors and varied shapes, they look something like an experiment gone wrong.

These uniquely shaped, multi-colored fruits and vegetables are living artifacts known as heirloom varieties, and they’ve been passed down through the ages. They’re a taste of history and a window into the fields and kitchens of yesterday all over the world.

“For one thing, their flavor is really great,” says Charlotte Swancy. She and her husband, Wes, operate Riverview Farms, a certified organic family farm on 150 acres in Ranger, Georgia. The farm, in operation by the Swancy family for over 30 years, obtained organic certification in 2000. Located just an hour north of Atlanta, the Swancys support many small urban markets, CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) subscriptions and restaurants. The couple raises grass-fed beef, pastured Berkshire pork (a heritage breed) and over 30 varieties of vegetables, including heirloom tomatoes. “We grow them because we like the flavor, and that’s what the market wants. They want the older variety of tomatoes.”

Handed down through generations of farmers and gardeners, some heirlooms predate Columbus’ arrival in the New World and were grown by Native Americans as many as five centuries ago. Other varieties came by ship, sailing across oceans in the pockets and suitcases of immigrants from Europe, Africa and Asia.

Heirloom varieties get their name due to their age and lineage, though there’s still some debate as to how to assess those two criterions. Most growers agree that heirloom, when properly applied, denotes an open-pollinated cultivar (short for “cultivated variety”) introduced prior to 1951. Around that time, plant breeders began producing hybridized (and inbred) varieties comprised of two or more plants chosen for specific traits and genetically crossed.

Open-pollinated cultivars are those pollinated by insects, butterflies, sometimes birds, and the wind. They are genetically pure and free of inbred lines. As such, open pollinated cultivars can grow from seed true-to-type. To preserve the variety, farmers collect seeds from the mature fruit of the plant and save it for the coming years. The work requires ample patience through what can be tedious labor. But seed saving allows those seeking a more sustainable process an affordable, gratifying opportunity.

Many large-scale farmers want hardier plants able to withstand mechanical harvesting, long travel time, higher crop yields and provide a uniform product for the market. Other possible traits desired by farmers are drought resistance and the ability to grow in varied climes and soil types. To meet these demands, farmers turn to hybrid varieties—but not without cost.

“When you hybridize something,” Swancy explains, “you’re taking maybe two heirloom varieties and combining them—or finding something about two varieties and hybridizing [them]. When you do that, you might lose something.”

Taste isn’t often high on the list of priorities with hybrids. The result is that inbred varieties lack not only the genetic diversity to grow back true-to-type through saved seeds, but also the texture and robust flavor of their heirloom ancestors.

“Let’s say, if you were to cross two very good heirloom tomatoes to get this other one, you’re going to lose the sweetness, or color, or the acidity. But you might also gain something when you hybridize. You might get a stronger plant or a better yield. Heirlooms don’t typically yield much,” she offers.

When saved from a first generation hybrid (or F1 variety) the seeds are often sterile. If they do germinate, the seeds can produce wildly varied results. The genetic possibilities could create hundreds of unusable variations. As such, the seeds aren’t economically viable for the large scale, commercial farmer. In this case, the farmer must buy new F1 hybrid seed every year.

Heirloom varieties aren’t without their faults. They’re not as hardy as their hybrid counterparts—they have thinner skins and can’t be shipped long distances. As for crop yields, their number is much more slight and less predictable, and they’re decidedly less picturesque. But for many eaters and growers, that’s exactly what they love about them.

Where others see flaws in heirloom varieties, enthusiasts see beauty and charm. They revel in the diversity and connection to the past—the opportunity to give to future generations. They take pride in preserving these regional treasures quickly regaining status as the crown of local foods. Come, taste and see for yourself.

Cameron Lawrence lives, writes and eats in Atlanta, GA. He wrote this article on behalf of Georgia Organics, a nonprofit organization working to integrate healthy, locally grown food into the lives of Georgians. For more information, visit www.georgiaorganics.org, and to find out more about Riverview Farms, visit www.grassfedcow.com.

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